"Dumb Society" inspired by Carlotta Bonnecaze's 1896 Proteus Procession
Please join us for FIVE O’CLOCK TEA
International House celebrates the opulent origins of Carnival, cocktail in hand
On Mardi Gras morning in 1857, "The Mistick Krewe of Comus introduced spectacle to the streets of New Orleans, and Carnival was forever changed," writes revered Carnival historian Henri Schindler. For the next 100 years - the Golden Age of Carnival - New Orleans lived the fullest expression of its sensual self, manifest in a glorious array of opulent costumes, intricate graphic art, and marvelous pageantry created by hundreds of prolific theater artists.
Yet, when most people think of Carnival today, they see purple, green, and gold mylar, blinking beads and flowing kegs of beer – it's the most misunderstood of the many distinctive traditions celebrated in New Orleans. However, the locally owned, art-centric boutique hotel, International House, celebrates this annual ritual with a breathtakingly original, culturally rich, and historically significant story from the Golden Age. In the two weeks leading into Mardi Gras day, February 21, the hotel lobby is adorned with 21 brilliant watercolors depicting fantastical, larger-than-life characters from Carnival 1896. The legendary images are from Carlotta Bonnecaze's irreverent "Dumb Society" parade that same year and pay tribute to her: Carlotta Bonnecaze was the first creole and first woman to design costumes and parade floats for Carnival. For the Krewe of Proteus in 1896, she did so with great artistic and satirical flair.
Displayed above the entrance to the hotel's magnetic bar, Loa, is Bonnecaze's comically titled "Five O'Clock Tea" painting, in which she pokes fun at affected custom. The painting is also the inspiration behind Loa's most enchanted tea party - a must-see late afternoon fête served theatrically by costumed creatures from February 9 – 12 and February 15 - 19, 5:00 - 6:15 pm each day, complete with make-believe animal noses and tasty rum-tea punch served with season's most delectable decadence, King Cake from master baker Thomas McGovern at TM Breads and Pastries. Fortune will smile on the lucky few who discover not plastic but one of 25 sterling silver King Cake babies cast for our 25th Anniversary by Jose Balli New Orleans.
Abigail Gullo, femme fatale and muse of New Orleans' fabled cocktail world, offers revelers a spirited taste of the Golden Age in a teacup: "My 'Five O'Clock Tea' honors Bonnecaze and her pricelessly witty animal-people creations. This libation nods to that magical era, and our "older sister," Venice, while still hailing clearly from this city. It's an extravagant taste of place worthy of a Queen, yet suitable for a jackass, dragonfly, or any satirical figures in her Dumb Society. Such are the demands of Carnival!" Gullo's tea, like her fantastically operatic voice, tells the story of Carlotta - tracing the wit of the watercolors as a liquid compendium of the season, a blend of spiced rum, local tangerine, and lime, suffused with bay and matcha tea leaves and a whisper of cardamon.
This year, to honor Carlotta's fantastical, artistic achievement and to celebrate International House's Silver Anniversary, Gullo has brought a lithesome she-wolf named Lupa to the carnival celebration. Adopting a 300-year-old recipe that proceeded this city's brunch staple, the Brandy Milk Punch, this signature Carnival libation, to be served in Carlotta's silver chalice, offers a glimpse of the cocktail's genesis in ancient fertility rites called “Lupercalia”, a pastoral festival celebrating the coming of Spring.
And to this chimerical menagerie, Abigail brings the Lilac Breasted Roller. This bird—whose name could conjure the image of a picturesque strutting parader decked out in mauve—is a feathered nexus of Carnival's color scheme, the epic of Gilgamesh, and Ishtar, the Babylonian goddess of fertility and sex. Considered by many the most beautiful bird in the world, its young are varied shades of brown and slowly, surely develop pastels to rival any preteen girl's dream bedroom.
The drink's design, emulating the Roller's coloring, places it among one of New Orleans' most enduring cocktail traditions since the mid-19th century – the Pimms Cup. This swirling sortie of herbaceous, floral, and citrus lifts the carnival spirit to soaring violet heights. The Lilac Breasted Roller can be found on Abigail's remarkable, illustrated menu.
The saying goes, "Carnival begins when Babylon rolls." How fitting to bring the myth of Ishtar, Queen of Babylon, to hearken Carnival of yesteryear, which rolled with sublime classical themes and stories of great ancient cultures. It's the sort of whimsical Pagan ritual that might stir the imagination of a Golden Age designer like Bonnecaze. And it reminds us that this city owes its fabulous, rich life to its stories, too, the telling weave of those layered narratives and curious characters who arrived in this gritty port town from all directions.
Step back in time and join us for this enchanted tea party, Thursday, February 9th thru Sunday, February 12th, and Wednesday, February 15th through Sunday, February 19th. Book your tickets here.